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Festivals
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Some local taboos: 1.
Never point at people with the middle finger.
And speaking of monkeys... Darwin would be gratified.
Chinese New Year (Chun Jie),
aka Spring Festival, is to Chinese what Christmas is to Westerners. It
falls on the first day of the first month of the Luny Calendar, and so
changes each year, but usually is in January or February. A
New Year's celebration has always been a very intimate affair, family
only. But either times are changing or we now have a very big family.
When the MBA Center's Dean learned, to his horror, that we had not prepared
our own Chinese New Year feast, he invited us to share his family's 20
course banquet. And every year since, some Chinese family has shared their
intimate meal with this family of homeless Americans. When
only one character is posted, it is usually for Spring (Chun), Long Life
(Changshou), or Fortune (Fu). They are often placed upside down so demons
can't read them and give them the opposite! The
night before New Year's Eve, families prepare sweets like cooked dates,
Chinese melons, cakes and candied peanuts. In the countryside and those
cities where it is not banned, people set off firecrackers to ward off
demons and the dreaded man-devouring Nian that stalks the land every New
Year's Day. Another
practice is for the eligible lass to cast divining blocks, and then to
walk in the direction they tell her until she meets someone. She memorizes
the first word that person speaks, and then a fortune tellers divines
whether the word is lucky or not, and thus whether she will marry or not
that year. SEND a Free
Dragon Boat E-card !Click the Dragon Boat ---> The Dragon Boat Festival! on the 5th day of the 5th lunar month, is called the Double 5th Day Festival in Taiwan, and the 5th Day Festival in Xiamen. Some people still insert Chinese mugwort in the doorway, poor wine on the floor, and pin charms on the children to keep evil spirits away. It's also a great day to air out clothes, clean the house, eat zongzis (pyramid-shaped dumplings of glutinous rice and meat in bamboo leaves), and to watch the annual International Dragon-Boat Race held in Jimei's Dragon-boat Pool. (Some dragon boats in the countryside are so long they require 80 rowers!) The
Dragon Boat Festival is one of 3 traditional days for settling
accounts with both the living and the dead. Various deities are responsible
for success in health, wealth and warfare, and with lakes and rivers numerous
in the south of China, many Southern deities live underwater. This explains
why some people throw rice and zongzis into the water-to feed the hungry
deities, demons, ghosts, and dragons (the chief water creature being the
dragon). Yet another tradition says the zongzis are thrown to an ancient
poet who drowned himself. The willow has long been used to celebrate Easter because it is one of the first flowers to bloom in spring. Likewise, Chinese use it for Qingming Jie. In fact, tradition has it that women must wear a sprig or risk being reborn as dogs! This tradition began back during the Tang Dynasty when Emperor Gao Cong (650 to 683 A.D.) plucked sprigs of willow and ordered his retinue to wear them in their caps to protect them from scorpion stings. Oddly enough, another name for Qingming Jie is Zhishujie,or "Tree Planting Festival," and it falls at the same time as the West's Arbor Day (which is also set aside for planting trees). On grave sweeping day, a meal and 3 glasses of wine are offered to ancestors, candles are lighted, and 3 sticks of incense smolder while the family prostrates itself before the dead. And as a precaution against evil spirits stealing the sacrifices, they often make a separate sacrifice of Hell Money (called ??? Wai Sui Zhi, or Outside Following Paper), which the demons scramble after. If someone can't make it to the ancestral tomb, they worship by correspondence. They put the Hell Money in large square bags, address it to the deceased recipient, prepare a smaller package for the evil demons, place them on the bed, light candles, kneel and worship. The parcels are then taken outside, wine is poured on them, and they are set afire. Hence the origin of "dead letter mail?" Cold
Food Festival
on April 4th is yet another cool festival. Fire and smoke are forbidden
because some official was burned to death on that day a few thousand years
ago. In remembrance of this man, Chinese used to forego fire for an entire
month, but they cut it back to 3 days, and now it's only one day, if even
that, and people eat only cold spring rolls, cold noodles, and cold take-out
cheeseburgers and KFC. Just before the Moon Festival, people present mooncakes to family, friends, co-workers and bosses. In Taiwan's private schools, teachers traditionally give mooncakes to students, and students reciprocate with a nice cash-stuffed Hongbao (Red Envelope). I
wouldn't mind starting that tradition in Xiamen
University. And once upon a time, on mid autumn festival, unmarried but wealthy girls past their prime would throw an embroidered ball out her window to a crowd of unmarried men below. She could throw the ball to any man she chose, and the one who caught it had to marry her, and they lived happily ever after, or at least had a ball. In
the evening, families are reunited to eat mooncakes, drink wine, and guess
riddles, and in Southern Fujian and Taiwan, we play Koxinga's "mooncake
gambling game." Every mid-autumn festival, quiet evenings are punctuated by the ringing of dice in large porcelain bowls as families and work unit members gather around tables to compete for mooncakes. They take turns tossing 6 mahjong dice into the bowl, taking care that no dice bounces out (for then they lose a turn). Prizes range from tiny cookies to medium and large mooncakes, with one grand prize - the Zhuangyuan cake. The different sizes represent different official positions won in taking the imperial examinations of yesteryear. The Grand Prize, called Zhuangyuan, represents #1 scholar, Duitang is #2 scholar, Sanhong is #3 scholar, deng deng. Few people actually enjoy the green bean and egg and fruit stuffed pastries, but who's going to mess with tradition? Mooncakes probably fill much the same niche as fruitcake back home. Fortunately, many families (and work units) are now replacing mooncakes with fruits, food, or practical things like towels, toothpaste, and laundry detergent. Our family usually wins enough toothpaste from Foreign Affair's annual game to last the year. If we ever miss out on Moon Festival, our Dentist will be the first to know about it. For more precise directions on Mooncake Gambling, just stick around. Your hospitable hosts will either teach you the ropes or hang you with them. But worry not. 'Tis a piece of cake! So much so that our boys have made a board game out of it, battling year round over hand-drawn cardboard cakes. Possible
Mooncake Game Combinations:
Winter
Festival
(Dongzhi) falls on the shortest day of the year, the Winter solstice,
and according to custom is the best day for buying, selling, and signing
contracts. On this day, eating a plate of Winter Festival dumplings will
supposedly add a year to your life. According to ancient custom, every single object in a house has a god living in it, so people who still follow old customs (especially in Taiwan) are very careful about how they clean house, lest they jostle and anger the deities resident in the couch or teapot or porta-potty. But on Sending off the Gods Day, the gods have all left to make their reports to the Emperor upstairs. This is also a good day to marry. Fortune tellers aren't needed to determine if it's a propitious day because the trouble-making deities have all skipped town.
Traditionally,
Chinese had 8 considerations in selecting a mate: 1) different surname,
2) not related, 3) rich), 4) social position, 5) behavior, 6) health,
7) appearance, 8) lucky or unlucky. Wedding dates are carefully chosen according to the Chinese horoscope, and presided over by seniors in both families. Traditionally, the day before the marriage, the bride's family sends the dowry to the groom's family and decorates the bridal chamber. Early on the wedding day, the bridegroom fetches the bride in a wedding car, and holds a banquet for guests that evening. After the feast, guests can go to the bridal chamber to joke with and tease the bride and groom. On
the third day, the bride and groom return to the bride's family, where
a feast is held to celebrate their survival of the first 3 days. Wedding gifts should always be given well before the wedding day, never on or after it. But if your friend hands you a sack of sweets and says they've just been married, no gift is expected. Wedding gifts used to be practical, like Double Happiness Brand thermoses, blankets, electric rice cookers, electric fans, deng deng. But to avoid getting five rice cookers and four fans and thirteen thermoses, many now prefer the increasingly ubiquitous cash-stuffed Hongbao. Though
"Hell Money" may be best for dearly departed newlyweds
In Chinese communities worldwide (though rarer in the mainland), spiritualists sometimes inform bereaved families that their dead child cannot rest until married to some other dearly departed soul. Both families then spend a small fortune to wed the dead, who attend by proxy (often in the form of engraved wooden 'spirit boards,' to which sacrifices are offered). I
suspect some girls end up with some real deadbeat husbands. As
I filmed, everyone who saw me shouted "Laowai!" This shouting
and pointing gets to some Laowai, but look at the other side of the Yuan.
Laowai zip about snapping shots of old men in PJs brushing their teeth
on the roadside, or of fishermen mending nets, or babies in split pants,
as if they all were Smithsonian cultural exhibits. I'm not sure which
is worse, "Laowai!" or "Flash!" Just
about the time I felt like joining the mourners myself, the brass band
broke into a rousing rendition of "Yankee Doodle Dandy." Farewell Forever After an hour of solemnities, the relatives led a procession out of the village common and down the dusty path into the countryside, marching to the three bands' merrily mournful music. Behind the bands came the pallbearers, followed by the sons, more family, professional mourners, a solo guitarist playing Spanish music, hundreds of friends and curious onlookers, children, dogs, and one lone water buffalo, who must have known what he was about because everyone ignored him. And I ran back and forth filming the entire procession. The
sons' devastating wails reached new heights when we passed a beautiful
3-story partially completed home on the outskirts of town. It was to have
been the father's retirement home. The place had obviously seen its share of skullduggery. The sons lifted the blanket and I nearly dropped my camera in shock. I had thought the father lay in state in a coffin, but under the red blanket was naught but a small porcelain urn of ashes. (Given how much he smoked, I think the extinguished gentlemen would have preferred a lacquer ashtray to an urn). The sons placed the 8 x 10 and the urn on a shelf dug into the damp cave wall, I shot one last scene, and we returned to the village courtyard, which was already cleared out and deserted, as if the funeral had never taken place. Life goes on. Weddings and funerals. Life and death. We Laowai and Laonei really do have a lot in common. As someone said, "Life is tough, and then you die." But Chinese are certainly no strangers to suffering, and I increasingly appreciate their love of life, and even their ability to laugh at death, as in these ancient Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) tales:
The friend replied, "Then I suppose those who eat white rice every day are in mourning?" These Are the Magi-- Gift-giving in China
The
Art of Chinese Gift-giving
It is written that the wise men who brought gifts to the Christ child
came from the East. I suspect they meant China, because 1) you can't get
any further East than China, and 2) Chinese have raised giving to an art
form. Our
first Christmas in China, our elderly dean gave our two sons a toy electric
car that set him back at least a week's wages. Two months later, on Chinese
New Year, a teacher gave each of our sons a Hongbao (Red Envelope) stuffed
with 100 rmb-a small fortune by that teacher's standards. Any doubts on
the importance of gifts in China vanished when I read Lesson 38 in, "Modern
Chinese Beginner's Course." The correct response to an impromptu
invitation to a Chinese friend's home was, "But we haven't brought
any gift." Gift
giving rituals vary around China. Tibetans give a white silk scarf, while
Hainan Islanders place a lei of flowers over guests' shoulders. In Xiamen,
the most common gifts are bags of fruit or packages of our local Oolong
tea. Xiamen folk avoid giving odd numbers of gifts. It must be two bottles of Chenggang medicinal wine, not one or three bottles, or 4 boxes of Tiekuanyin tea, never three or five. The gifts must be proffered respectfully with two hands, and accepted with two hands. Americans have no qualms in giving an inexpensive gift or card to convey a sentiment because it's the thought that counts. But not in China, where face is everything, and a small or trifling gift may be worse than no gift at all. Conversely and perversely, the larger the gift, the more face for both parties. Over the years, our face has been lifted more times than Elizabeth Taylor's. Guests have materialized on our threadbare astroturf welcome mat with 50 bananas, or 30 pounds of roasted Longyan peanuts, or 15 pounds of freshly caught fish, or 4 dozen freshly fried home-made spring rolls. We've protested, futilely, that 50 pounds of bananas will rot before we can finish them off. In the end, we either go on banana binges or make a quick pilgrimage to a Chinese colleague's home with a second-hand gift of bananas, tea, dried mushrooms or fresh fish. They probably pass them off too, but somewhere down the line some soul has to get 50 pounds of bananas down the hatch. Where's the Beef? We had some knotty experiences until we learned the ropes of Chinese gift giving. Shortly after we moved into Chinese professor's housing, Susan baked chocolate cake, which at that time few Xiamen folk had tried. She gave our neighbor a couple of slices to sample, and the astonished granny thanked her profusely and shut her door slowly, politely. Next morning, bright and early, she rapped on our door, and thrust a plate full of beef in Sue's face. She said, "For you," and beat a hasty retreat, ignoring Susan's protests. "This is terrible, Bill," Sue said. "She should not have done that." "This is great, Sue." I retorted. "Two pounds of beef costs a lot more than two slices of cake. Think how much we'll save on meat if we give cake to all our neighbors." Now
I know why Marie Antoinette gave everyone cake. Giving to the Motherland When overseas Chinese labored in abject poverty in the mines and fields of Africa and Colonial Asia, or to build American railroads, they invariably sent a large portion of their meager earnings home to family. It was these pittances, multiplied a million fold, that kept China afloat when we were bleeding her dry through the opium trade. Some laborers became industrial magnates, like Tan Kak Kee, and donated millions to China. Even today, regardless of political persuasions, overseas Chinese continue to remit millions annually not only to their mainland relatives but to local governments to build schools, colleges, orphanages, and roads. Chinese, rich and poor alike, are a generous people. A lowly mason who lives in a shack nearby gave me 5 pounds of freshly netted fish because he heard my in-laws were visiting from America. A disabled, retired campus laborer shows up occasionally with fresh greens from his garden, or new flowers for our yard. When word got around that I wanted a stone mill to grind wheat, several peasants headed to the rural stone quarries, and we were blessed with not one mill but three (never again will I take wheat for granite). The mason, the disabled laborer, the peasants, sought nothing in return. They gave because we were friends-like the poor bicycle repairman who repeatedly insists, "It's a small thing. Pay me when you have a real problem to fix." The man's entire world is but a tiny, dusty shop only 8 feet wide and 4 feet deep. Greased bike chains and sprockets, rims and tires and tubes, bike seats and pedals hang from nails on the walls. His furniture consists of two bamboo stools, one for himself and one for customers, and a bamboo footstool that doubles as a table for his cheap tea set, which he sets up every time I stop by. He has spent more serving me tea than he will ever make from fixing my battered bicycle. Chinese have always given sacrificially to family and their immediate community, but charity beyond that was rare, for it was seen as depriving family and local community of scarce resources. But times are better now, and Beijing is seeking to widen the scope of giving. Half a dozen programs encourage wealthier urbanites to help their less fortunate and far more numerous comrades in the countryside. Every year, "Project Hope" (????) allows millions of urban Chinese to help fund poor rural children's education. And "Helping Hand" pairs up city kids and country kids, who write to each other and exchange gifts.
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Last Updated: May 2007 |
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