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Tong'an
is Xiamen's remotest area, about half an hour north of J¨©m¨§i,
but it is well worth a tour because for most of the past 1000 years, T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n,
not Xiamen, was the area¡¯s economic, political
and cultural center, as well as one of the most wildly beautiful scenic
regions in F¨²ji¨¤n. with delightful attractions
like Butterfly Valley, and the new
Best Western Trithorn Hotsprings Resort.
T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n was established in the Jin Dynasty in the 3rd year of Emperor
Taikang¡¯s reign (the barbarian-befuddling way of saying 282 A.D.). It
started out as part of N¨¢n¡¯¨¡n (ÄÏ°²,Koxinga¡¯s
home), became Datong Square in 809 AD, and was renamed T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n in 933.
Tong¡¯an was home to the amazing inventor Su Song (below), and also where
the philosopher Zhuxi, whose neoConfucianism transformed
Asia, held his first official post.
T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n eventually
became part of Qu¨¢nzh¨u, and Xiamen Town was
established as part of T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n in 1387 A.D.
In 1953, T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n¡¯s J¨©m¨§i became part of Xi¨¤m¨¦n,
and the rest of T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n came under Xi¨¤m¨¦n in August 1958. T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n was
returned to Jinjiang's (½ú½, part of Quanzhou)
jurisdiction in Feb. 1970, and in June 1973 was put back under Xi¨¤m¨¦n
again, where it still remains¡ªas of last week, anyway.
So
why the tug of war between J¨¬nji¨¡ng and
Xi¨¤m¨¦n? T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n¡¯s 1,079km2 not only has a
rich cultural and historic heritage but also 500,000 acres of farmland
(rare in mountainous F¨²ji¨¤n), 400,000 acres of mudflats (though our van
has had too many flats in mud), 86km. of coastline, and 1.12 million acres
of mountains. F¨²ji¨¤n is almost all mountains
anyway, but not like those of T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n, with countless waterfalls, ancient
temples atop precipitous peaks, our unique ¡°Valley of Butterflies,¡± etc.
T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n is beautiful above ground, and a treasure below ground, with ancient
relics like the T¨©ngx¨© Kiln (T¨©ngx¨© Y¨¢ozh¨«Í¡ÏªÒ¤Ö·) that produced the prized
pear-lescent porcelain prized all over ancient Asia, especially in Japan.
So
where to start? We¡¯ll begin with T¨ng¡¯¨¡n¡¯s favorite son, S¨± S¨°ng
(ËÕËÌ), and then visit the ancient Confucian Temple (K¨¯ngmi¨¤o¿×Ãí), the Brahma
Temple (F¨¤nti¨¡n S¨¬, èóÌìËÂ), the ¡°12 Dragon Waterfalls¡± (Sh¨ª ¨¨r L¨®ng T¨¢nb¨¤ob¨´,
Ê®¶þÁú̶ÆÙ²¼) of the North Mountain Scenic Region (B¨§ich¨¦nsh¨¡n Y¨®ul¨£n Q¨±, ±±³½É½ÓÎÀÀÇø),
and after marveling at the surre-alistic beauty of the ¡°Valley
of Butterflies,¡± (H¨²di¨¦g¨³ºûµû¹È), we¡¯ll feast on the inimitable native
cuisine of the T¨ng¡¯¨¡n Guesthouse (T¨®ng¡¯¨¡n B¨©n-Gu¨£n, ͬ°²±ö¹Ý). The homely
d¨¦cor is misleading, because they serve some of M¨«nn¨¢n¡¯ finest dishes.
Tong'an
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