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By Walter deVelder
.... This
fascinating memoir was provided by Joann
Hill. Enjoy!
Part
1: 1900-1910 Part
2: 1910-1920 Part
3: 1920-1930
Part
4: 1930-1940 Part
5: 1940-1950 Part
6: 1950-1960
Part
7: 1960-1970 Part
8: 1970-1980
Return
to The Amoy Mission
I
Remember "Wally"
Part 6: 1950-1960
At the border, my document listing my belongings in Leng-na, was taken from me, but again it was amazing I was allowed to keep the chit about the station wagon. The Canadians had some trouble with their exit papers, but we were eventually cleared to enter Hong King. When we crossed the border and saw the British flag, we sat down and wept. The Brandauers had suffered physically. They were forced to pick weeds and their hands were rough and gnarled. Freedom now was so precious that on the twenty minute train ride to the Kowloon Station we sang and cried some more. We stayed at the Presbyterian guest house recently opened by the Rev. Mr. & Mrs. E. E. Walline on Carnarvan Road. The Wallines were perfect hosts. Mr. & Mrs. Walline had spent many years in China. In 1946 Ed had done a very remarkable thing buying two shiploads of army medical supplies. They were sold to Missions all over China and South Fukien with its twelve hospitals benefited greatly from this bonanza.
I sent three cables, one to Harriet, one to our good friend in Amsterdam, Mr. DeJong Schouwenburg who had earlier asked me to cable him as soon as I was out of China, and one to the Board. The Board was relieved that I was safe. Our Dutch friend sent a long cable, which started with Proverbs 25:25 "As water to a thirsty soul is good news from a far country". His cable went on to say that he knew how eager I was to get to the family, but would I consider coming via the Netherlands, because he wanted to see me once more. He added, "I will pay the difference in your travel". So I boarded big new KLM Dutch Airliner in Hong Kong and went to Amsterdam via Bankuk and Du Bai. I saw my dear old friend and benefactor a few hours. It was the last time I did see him. I went on to LaGuardia in New York City. I arrived in Grand Rapids by train.
John Muilenburg happened to be in Holland and he met me with Phil, Margaret, Dirck and David. Little John was not well, he and Harriet could not come. The children were very excited and I hugged each in turn. When I came to David, I made a huge mistake by calling him John. He had grown so much I couldn't believe had was little David. He said to me with his big blue eyes round and wide, "I'm not John, I'm David". I know David has forgiven me but even after forty eight years I am still reminded of my great mistake in power of identification.
I was back in the familiar 18th Street Mission House. The Esther family, also living there, had left in October for the Philippines. It was strange to be back in great activity. After many months of not going anywhere in China I was now going from coast to coast on Deputation. It was a strange feeling that on the one hand, the Western Boards had seemingly "written off" China, there was a tremendous interest in China and its future. The Board said, I was "on hold" for possible change of assignment, but suggested I look for work in the US. I was asked by the Domestic Board if I would consider going to Canada to work with the hundreds of Dutch immigrants. This had its appeal because of my knowledge of the Dutch language, and also remembered my experiences with the Dutch people in the Netherlands. But our hearts were with the Chinese and God opened the way for us to the Philippines to work with the Chinese on the Island of Cebu.
In March of 1951 with the $600 I had kept from the sale of the Ford station wagon left in China, and generous help from supporting Churches I bought another station wagon from R. E. Barber in Holland, Michigan. Our trip in the very spacious Ford wagon was a delight. We reached San Francisco in ten days, after spending two days in South Dakota. This time there were no strikes on the waterfront and everything went smoothly. We sailed from Oakland, California on the brand new M/S Golden Bear of the American President Lines, a freighter of 9000 tons, carrying twelve passengers. It was not even necessary to crate the station wagon. We were bound for the Philippines on yet another most interesting experience. Besides our family of seven, there was a family of five on board, Mrs. Harris and four children, the ages of ours.
Two days out of harbor I was presented a paper to sign, to wit that I would not hold the ship responsible in case of accident. That was strange, but we found out that we were carrying small field guns and other ammunition for the Korean War. We did not stop in Honolulu and sailed straight to Yokohama in fourteen days of good weather. We off loaded very little cargo in Yokohama but then went to Yokosuka Naval Base for four days to off load the deadly cargo. The children loved the officers' mess with its good food, and the swimming pool and deck area. I spent most of the two days in Tokyo at the Mac Arthur's Supreme Allied Headquarters on behalf of Mrs. Harris, who strangely enough did not have the proper visa to join her husband in Taiwan. The children did not want to leave the luxury of the Navy Base.
We stopped in Keeking in Taiwan for a few hours, and then went on to Hong Kong. We left a grateful Mrs. Harris and family. Back in Hong Kong we saw a tremendous change. The docks were repaired and there was a new look everywhere. Even the Peak looked good because houses had been rebuilt after the ravages of war years. Two Amoy speaking Churches had been established. It was great to see many old friends from Amoy and South Fukien.
We were met in Manila Bay by Joe and Mollie Esther (Harriet's sister). Joe had gotten housing for us in a suburb, Pasay City. Manila Bay looked very forlorn with wrecked ships of all kinds still protruding from the water. Buildings along Dewey Boulevard had huge pock marks in them. We lived in Manila for a few months and then moved on to Cebu City on Cebu Island, two hundred miles South of Manila. I tried to help in Manila in a Church and school dominated by an elder sister of the man in China who in 1943 resigned from the Westminster School (Poe-goan) Board after Elder Chan and I recommended that he do so. It was difficult to work in this kind of situation, and as the RCA already had three Missionaries in Manila, it was wise for us to go to Cebu City. The Board of World Mission of the RCA had been able to enter the Philippines through the good offices of the Church of Christ in that land and our mandate was to try to merge the Chinese into the Filipino Church. This proved to be an impossible task for several reasons. The Chinese had been "Independents" in the Philippines for more than a thousand years. The RCA eventually put seven Missionary couples in the Islands, but in twenty eight years there was only one couple remaining there, and they were connected with the Theological Seminary of the United Church.
Because of the Chinese language we spoke, the Chinese called us "Lan Long", which means "Our People", but the Chinese called the Filopino "Hoan-na", or "Strangers". The Chinese had money and were often extremely exclusive. In the Philippines Chinese and Filopinos got along quite well together but in Indonesia, for example, the Chinese have suffered greatly under Sukarno and later under Suharto. It is a sad situation and it is hard to find an answer. We liked the Philippines very much. The people were very friendly and smiled often. One could hear singing everywhere. An American professor of Music at Silliman University in Dunoquite said that if one took ten Filipinos at random that from them one could expect more music than from any ten persons anywhere else in the world. The Chinese were hard working and generous.
In Cebu City for our first year of four, we lived on a big campus on Osnena Boulevard, housing the Cebu Christian Hospital, the Bradford Memorial Church and two houses belonging to the American Presbyterian Mission. We lived in the Martin house, as they were on furlough in the US. The children went to two schools, Phil to the Cebu Institute, a High School, and Margaret, Dirck, John and Dave to the little American school. The kids all had bicycles and in 1951 were able to ride safely in the City. This is not true today as the City has grown tremendously. The grounds and open garage under the house had many big snails. The Japanese had introduced snails into the Philippines in the occupation in 1941-45. I gave the kids a centavo for each one collected and almost went bankrupt doing so. Our son John was the champion snail collector. The American school had a good mix of Western children and Filipinos and Chinese. There were good teachers and the children were happy in school.
I helped the local
Chinese Church where I could. The Chinese Pastor was a gentle, good man.
He had some interesting ideas. One was that he would not take any salary.
A box in the Church entrance was marked "Pastor". Sometimes
the cupboard was very bare. He would not allow baptism by sprinkling even
though the Consistory allowed it. He did not like lively Church music
which the fine choir would sing. He gave me the funerals of persons he
was not sure were saved.
Harriet was happy to help in women's work, especially calling on members
and non-Christians. She was on a team which went out twice a week. Our
helper in the house was Doring Pajares, a widow, with four children. Harriet
had evening prayers wit our choir of nine children and the song they chose
often to sing was "Master, the Tempest is Raging", which they
sang with gusto, so that it could be heard at the Bradford Church, a block
away.
I am sure I visited many cities in neighboring Islands and had great help from Consul General Tis Mih, a fine Christian layman in Davas City in the Island of Mindanao. Mr. Mih was a graduate of St. John's University in Shanghai. He was a very good lay Preacher. I was able to recommend two of his children to Hope College where they did excellently well. It was a great joy and good fellowship to be on the Personnel Committee at the United Church of Christ in the Philippines. I went quite often to Dumaquite on the neighboring Island of Negros to Silliman University. This was an over night journey by ship. Here I would put short messages on tape to broadcast in the Southern Philippines. I would speak in the Chapel where our good friend, Doug Vernon was the Chaplain.
I went to Davos, the southern most port in Mindanao, where Wesley Shoo was Pastor of the Chinese Church. Wesley was a graduate of Western Theological Seminary in Holland, Michigan and to his joy he was ordained by the United Church of Christ in the Philippines. It was his sister, Sio Gim-Sui – Mrs. Sim Seng-Gu – who helped us so much in Leng-na in the 1940s. I visited and preached in the beautiful City of Zamboanga where Paul Chiu, former student in Talmage College, was the preaching Elder in the Chinese Church. He owned a very prosperous hardware store in the City.
The children learned to swim well, like fish, in the artesian pools and in the Ocean with its beautiful beaches. We went twice to Baguio, the famous mountain resort North of Manila.
I had the honor to represent the American Community at the interment of the body of President Guerino at the Roman Catholic cemetery in Cebu City. Filipino-American relations were very good and pleasant. This was true from the start of the 20th Century, when the United Stated took over from Spain.
In my travels to churches in the Islands, I went once a month to Tagbilaron on the Island of Bohol, overnight by ship. I would go on Friday and spend Saturday calling on the Chinese in the town. On one such Saturday I met an elderly Westerner on the street and asked him to have a cup of coffee in a small restaurant. He was a gracious old grizzly bear with a great smile. He was an American but a distant cousin of the Canadian Bandleader, Guy Lombardo. He invited me out to his farm outside the town a few miles away, when next I came to the Island. On a visit to Togbilaran the next month I went to his farm and found a most delightful place. It covered about four acres. There was a simple but cozy little bungalow. The farm had lucious fruit trees. There was a pond fed by a spring and on it floated big fat Mallard ducks. There were formations of rocks everywhere and all in all it was a perfect setting. The Filipina lady of the house was a perfect hostess.
When the US took over the Philippines from Spain in 1900, hundreds of American teachers came to the Islands to teach English. These devoted and friendly teachers built up a reservoir of good will lasting until now. Many men married Filipina wives and further consolidated the union. I wish to relate another example of good will between our two countries.
One day in early 1954 I was invited to perform an unique funeral on Mactan Island, the small island opposite Cebu, where Magellan from Spain was killed in the 16th Century. It was Saturday, and the children were home from school. I asked if any of them wished to go with me and only Dirck did, "I'll go with you, Dad", he said. No one seemed keen to go to a funeral. Dirck and I took a horse carriage to the water front, where we could take a small ferry to Mactan, some three hundred yards away. On the way to our destination on Mactan we passed Magellan's Cross, which is supposed to grow taller as time goes by. Here many pilgrims came to worship where Roman Catholicism came to the Philippines. It was ten o'clock when we came to the five acre beautiful compound where the funeral, rather it was interment was to take place. Some 150 people had already gathered for this unique occasion. A Filipino guerilla fighter in World War II had lost his life fighting the Japanese in 1945 in the mountains on Leyte Island. His bones had been brought back to Mactan. These bones were interred in a corner of the compound. I held a simple ceremony. The Mayor of Mactan and the American Consul at Cebu said a few words. We felt the solidarity between the US and the Philippines as we remembered the common cause against the Japanese, and then the entertainment began. A brass band played patriotic tunes, there were native dances including Ting-Ka-Ling where nimble dancers perform between moving bamboo poles. One mishap could cause a broken ankle. Pretty Filipina ladies in their beautiful terno dresses wanted to dance with Dirck, whose cheeks were soon covered with lipstick. Dirck seemed to enjoy it all. Then, came food, tables laden with four roast piglets – lechon – and all kinds of delicious native food. There was fruit in abundance. At 3 p.m. Dirck and I excused ourselves from the party, which was to continue until late that evening. I was given a generous honorarium and the sister of the man whose bones we interred slipped a brand new ten peso bill into Dirck's shirt pocket. We came away with two big bags of fruit, big carabore mangoes, long yellow bananas, pomeloes, and other wonderful fruit. Later, when we reached home, the children asked Dirck what he did at the funeral, and he showed them his brand new ten peso bill, they were impressed.
In the Spring of 1955, the Board of World Missions assigned us to Hong Kong. We sold our Ford station wagon to the Cebu Broadcasting Station for $850. In May we boarded the M/S Tjijalinka for Hong Kong. The ship had great memories for me in that Margaret and I traveled to Tsing-Tau on her in 1939 when she was on her maiden voyage. It was a sad trip when our family went to Hong Kong from Amoy in 1949. In Hong Kong we felt the cold, when the temperature was forty degrees. Phil, Margaret and Dirck entered King George V School, and John and Dave started in Kowloon Junior School. It was great to see many old Chinese friends from Fukien and more refugees were coming in from the mainland everyday. Church attendance was good and it was wonderful to hear the Chinese Choirs, especially in the Happy Valley Church. There was so much to do in this great City now grown to two and a half million people.
Because of the refugees
coming in from all parts of China, Church World Service needed help and
I was asked to help in this splendid organization. Chung-Chl College was
just getting started in temporary building on Hong Kong Island, and I
was invited to teach a course on Philosophy of Life, twice a week. This
College was unique, the outgrowth of the former Christian Colleges and
Universities on the mainland. Hundreds of American sailors came to Hong
Kong for rest and recreation and I was asked to help at Fenwick Pier,
where all were required to land. This facility provided all kinds of help
to sailors, post office, money exchange, trips into the new territories
and so on. The two years until 1957 went quickly and we were due a year's
furlough after six and a half years on the field.
I had planned for a long time a dream trip for the children and had saved
accordingly. We went to the US via Europe on the M/S Victoria from Hong
Kong to Genoa in Italy, the train to London via Paris and, then on the
M/S Mouratania to New York. Our family of seven was joined by Ruth Broekema
and Jeane Walvoord from Taiwan. Our ports of call were Singapore, Ceylon
– now, Sri Lanka – Bombay Karachi, Aden, Naples and Genoa. In Singapore
we saw some very dear friends, and the children loved the famous Bird
Sanctuary.
I had not been in Columbo-Ceylon since Margaret and I stopped there in 1936. Bombay brought back memories of 1944. We could not go ashore in Karachi because of the health problems in the City. Aden was in a sorry state and we were happy to be on our way. We went through the Suez Canal under convoy to Port Said. At the toe of Italy in the Missina Straits, the Volcano Stromboli put on a spectacular display for us. In Naples we saw the fantastic ruins caused by Visuvious. Phil, Margaret, Ruth Broekema and Jeane Walvoord took a side trip to Rome from Naples, and the rest of us went on to Genoa. In Genoa we saw the home of Christopher Columbus and the yard was filled with big cats.
From Genoa we took the Trans Europe train to London via Paris. The children loved Paris. Little did Dirck know then that six years later he would meet Marielle Courthial from Paris in Hope College. London was a great stop for us. Some of us stayed with the Landsborough's and some in a cozy little hotel. We were shown around London by our friend and colleague from China, the Rev. Bill Short. Phil managed to go to the House of Lords for a few hours to sit in the balcony. We took the famous Flying Scot train from London to Edinborough. Ruth and Jeane went to Germany to visit friends. We saw a wonderful parade in Edinborough, St. Giles Cathedral where John read a Psalm in Hong Kong British accent. From Edinborough we went to Manchester where we spent Sunday with Ian and Joyce Latto. These dear friends who were colleagues of ours in Fukien Province in the 1930s – and 40s. Ian asked me to preach in his Church. On Monday we spent a day in the beautiful Penine Hills. that day will be remembered for its picturesque scenery, the caves, and a lunch in a cozy Tea House.
We made a brief visit to the Netherlands to visit our friends in Amsterdam and a colleague from China days – Mrs. Maria VandeWeg Sohaap in Deventer and with her we visited the Queen's Summer home in Appadoorn, and all of us enjoyed a visit to Madurodam, the miniature village that helped raise funds for the control of TB. The children walked through the tiny village several times.
We left London on the boat train for Portsmouth and sailed on the spacious M/S Maurtania. We picked up passengers in Cherbourg France, and went to Cobh in Southern Ireland where seventy five Irish folk embarked for the US as immigrants. These folk remained a tight clan on the ship and for the next five days danced their jigs on the decks from morning till night. The children were delighted to be on board ship again and John won a prize at the Captain's Dinner by dressing as a Chinese Amah carrying a doll on his back.
The kids were excited when the Statue of Liberty was seen. We were met at the dock by "Waterfront Annie", an endearing nickname for Mrs. Grads, wife of the Head of the Pension Board of the RCA. She met all the incoming ships bringing passengers from mission fields in all parts of the world, and offered all a "treat", given by the Rev. Mr. A. L. Warnhis, who at one time was a missionary in the Amoy Mission. That was in the early 1900s. We could choose the "treat". Harriet, Phil and Margaret, Ruth Broekema and Jeane Walvoord chose a museum and dinner. Dirck, John, David and I went to the Yankee Stadium to see the Yankees beat the Red Sox 3-2. Mickey Mantle, Dave's hero obliged by hitting a mamouth home run, and Dave was further inflated when someone on the ramp after the game looked at Dave and said, "are you another Mickey Mantle?" in fact there was a likeness.
The kids enjoyed the final train lap of our fantastic journey from New York to Grand Rapids. We went to our "home" in the familiar 15th Street Mission House in Holland, Michigan, and had a good year of furlough. Phil entered Hope College, Margaret Senior High, and Dirck and John went to the E. E. Fell Middle School on River Avenue and David entered Van Raalte Elementary School. We learned later that Dave met a rather unusual beginning here. One of the tough boys in the school was designated to pick a fight with the "new boy", but Dave was a good ball player and the team needed a catcher, so the fight was cancelled. We found out that the designated pugilist was a boy named Meings and a distant relative of Harriet's, whose mother was Anna Meings. Dave was saved because he could play ball, but in any event he could have taken care of himself.
I was away on Deputation a lot and crossed the country from coast to coast and even went three times to Canada. Church World Service wanted me to speak for them and I went to several large and small churches representing this great organization. The year passed quickly and I drove an almost new Ford station wagon 18,000 miles. We enjoyed a project given me in my spare time to clean up a room in the basement of the 15th Street House where all kinds of things left by missionaries over a period of perhaps sixty years, had been stored. As I look back we probably threw away some antiques, but in the future digging in the city dump they may be found again.
In June, 1958 we returned to Hong Kong. Phil stayed in Holland, MI, at Hope College. We sailed from San Francisco on the 7000 ton M/S Kungsholm, a Swedish freighter, carrying twelve passengers. The Captain was very fond of children and set up a large canvas pool on deck for swimming. The Captain's wife was not only a certified first mate in shipping but a very efficient waitress. The food was excellent. Three days out of Honolulu we took a very Southern route and the Captain told us he had to keep a strict route because there was to be a nuclear bomb test in the Bikini Atoll. Small planes patrolled the area to see that ships obeyed this order. On the sixth day we were told that the test would occur at 2 a.m. the following morning. We had a very strange feeling as the time drew near and with almost a stoppage of breath we saw the awesome sight of a pillar of fire emerge from the ocean and then a mushroom of fire spread across the sky. We thought of Hiroshima and Nagasaki and asked ourselves "how could a Christian nation, as the US was called, drop this horrible weapon of destruction on so many innocent people?"
Once again in Hong
Kong we returned to a variety of activities. We found very good accommodations
on Argyle Street, a building of six apartments occupied by very nice people.
Portuguese, Danish, Chinese and Americans. The children could walk to
school without crossing a street. Margaret in Form 5, Dirck in 4, and
John in 3, and David Form one. We said, farewell to John and Virginia
Muilenburg, who had been assigned to Hong Kong from the Philippines during
our furlough. John did an excellent job in all the various activities,
and had had time to keep the Oratorio Society together as well.
I became very much involved in the Parent Teacher's Association of King
George V School, and for three years was the Treasurer of the organization,
the first American to serve in this active group. The children did well
in school. Margaret, another American won the English prize. Dirck and
John were fine athletes as was David.
Church World Service was service around the clock, as thousands of refugees came from the mainland. The Kai-Tak Airport runway was extended into the Bay, and Church World Service fed 2000 workers on the airstrip daily for two years. These workers used hand shovels to take down a large hill to pour into the Harbor. The US Navy brought in tons of flour, which we made into noodles. Father Romanillo of Catholic Service raised up a noodle factory which was open twenty four hours a day. CWS also built a factory, a sour note crept into this humanitarian effort when one of our supporting churches cut off their unit of support because we as Protestants were cooperating too closely with the Roman Catholics, borrowing flour back and forth when either factory ran out. This was one very conservative Pastor's idea, not the action of the congregation.
DWS opened a small school for forty blind girls who were taught to be very efficient telephone operators. The H. K. Council of the Church of Christ in China elected me its Treasurer for a three year term. We built many elementary and high schools and opened many Churches.
Hong Kong had a
new Governor, whom I had known on the mainland, when he was British Vice
Consul in Amoy. In 1943 he walked out of the Japanese Internment Camp
in Shanghai and made his way overland more than nine hundred miles to
Sio-Khe where we had gone to live to escape the bombing in Chang Chow.
He spent a memorable night with us and the Harmans and then went on and
back to England via West China. Sir Murray Maclehose was a very able Governor
for a decade in the Port City of Hong Kong.
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